Longyearbyen is a study in contrasts as it struggles to find its way from being the company town it was to the Norwegian family settlement Norway envisions. The challenges are great. The population is both international and transient, with most people staying only three years.
The infrastructure is old. Until recently, it was based on locally mined coal. However, in order to prepare for a more “green” energy solution, the decision was made to switch to diesel which has turned out to be significantly more expensive and less reliable than coal causing economic hardship, resulting in financial aid from Norway to assist in paying for the diesel costs. The drinking water is glacier melt water minimally treated. As with many Arctic towns, there is little recycling. Food and other goods are flown in. Wastewater is dumped directly into the fjord. The carbon footprint is embarrassing. Sustainability is a myth.
Since the war in Ukraine Svalbard has become politically complex and geopolitically important. While under Norwegian sovereignty, citizens of any of the 48 countries who have signed the Svalbard Treaty (dating from 1925) are free to live there. As long as they can find a job, a place to live, and support themselves. Not as easy as it sounds. The non-Norwegian residents have risen to be 1/3 of the population, with English commonly spoken in town. This is a direct result of Norway’s decision to focus on tourism as it closed the mining industry, and this shift is increasingly problematic for them. A problem Norway is trying to solve by restricting non-Norwegian access to housing and jobs, and taking away their right to vote.
But the town is full of warm, generous people and its diversity has led to a rich multi-cultural life that residents value highly. There is a perpetual bubble of excitement in town. Living in the high Arctic is extraordinary. It’s life lived at eleven, every day. The impact of the wilderness around us is profound and primal. Longyearbyen is the world’s northernmost town, and there is no other place like it.
Longyearbyen 2018n 2018 I went to Svalbard for one month. I stayed seven years. One of my biggest goals was to document every day life in the high Arctic. Was climate change affecting the town and the landscape? How do people in a transient place build community? What was life like on the edge? These images are intended as an historical document, and I have an agreement with the Svalbard Musuem to give them the collection as I finish sections of it.
So welcome to the world's northernmost town, Longyearbyen, 2018. The first avalanche fence is being built. The town was 1,500 people, mostly Norwegian but with a strong international population. Mining and tourism are the two major employers. Everything is about to change.
So welcome to the world's northernmost town, Longyearbyen, 2018. The first avalanche fence is being built. The town was 1,500 people, mostly Norwegian but with a strong international population. Mining and tourism are the two major employers. Everything is about to change.
Road from Nybyen in a stormThere's always a first time. February 17, 2019 was mine. I remember nervously climbing the stairs in the dark, uncertain where the lights were, unsure what I would find up there. I found a window in that attic room, and took the first photo of this S curve in the road. I didn't realize then that I would come to know those stairs like an old friend. That over the years I would bring other artists up those steps, or that I would take versions of this photo in every weather, every month, both night and day. But this was the first shot. A moment of anxiety (would the wind rip the window off the hinges if I opened it?) and joy. Always joy.
Walking the Dog Svalbard-StyleThe first time I saw a dog being "walked" by their person on a snowmobile, I didn't know what to think. It was not uncommon, and the dogs seemed fine with it. But for sure this was the tiniest dog I saw taken out for its run in this manner. The noise of snowmobiles is everywhere in winter.
Northernmost Climate Change ProtestIn 2019 the youth of Longyearbyen became energized over the issue of climate change, and how little was being done about it. Inspired by Greta Thunberg they held a protest march through town. A UNIS student group continues the work of local education and protest. When I moved to Svalbard the archipelago was warming three times faster than the rest of the planet. When I left in 2025 it was warming seven times faster.
KSAT Polar Bear GuardKSAT, the Norwegian satellite station in Longyearbyen is the only satellite station with 24/7 access to satellites due to its far north position. in 2018 and 2019 there was a yearly open house for locals to visit the station. Due to COVID in 2020 this was stopped, and then after Russia invaded Ukraine additional security measures were put in place.
Taking Baby for a WalkA love of the outdoors is core to most people living in Longyearbyen. I was out with friends exploring the ice on the Advent River when this parent pulled up, unloaded his buggy, baby, and rifle and started off for a walk on a beautiful Arctic day.
Winter Snowmobile TourismTourism is practically year round now in Longyearbyen. Beginning with northern light tours in January, then snowmobile season from February to May or June, cruise boat season from June to October, and then with the polar night, back to northern lights. As tourism has grown so has the number of visitor going out on guided tours, sometimes in groups as big as 100. It's unsustainable. Snowmobiles run on diesel and are loud and, for the inexperienced, can also be dangerous. But they are very popular and if you live in town you own at least one.
Norwegian Constitution DaySyttende Mai, or 17th May is Norway's national day. This is the day that the Norwegian constitution was signed in 1814. This, however is not Norway's "independence" day. After being Danish, and then Swedish, rule Norway finally attained independence in 1905.Unlike other countries, 17th of May is not a military celebration. Instead, it's celebrated with children's parades, the wearing of traditional costume called bunard, and parties.
Cruise Ship ArrivalAfter Covid, in 2023 tourism came roaring back. On this day in June there were three large vessels in the harbor, and several smaller expedition ships. Expedition ships are generally less than 200 passengers. At the dock was the MSC Preziosa (3,500 passengers), and out in the harbor are the Viking Saturn (930 passengers) and the Hurtigruten Fram (318 passengers). That's almost twice the population. Tourism has come to be a problem, environmentally, for safety reasons, and because of the way it conflicts with Norway's goals for Svalbard. This level of tourism demands an infrastructure that Longyearbyen does not have, and is served by a non-Norwegian population that is primarily Thai and Philippine. In 2025 the first of a series of laws were enacted intended to cut down on the size and type of tourist vessels allowed around Svalbard.
Driving Home from the MineThe longest road in Longyearbyen is the east-west road. It connects the coal harbor (and airport) in the west with Mine 7 in the east. It's roughly 30km from end to end. Its original use was to get coal from the mine to the harbor, and miners from town to the mine. Much of the road is maintained by Store Norske, who managed the coal mine. What will happen to it in the future is uncertain. The government would like to make Advendalen off limits once the mine is closed (in 2025). But along it's length are private houses, dog sledding businesses, and it's also the primary outlet for residents and tourists to access the wilderness for hiking, skiing, and snowmobiling. As with much of Longyearbyen, it's future is uncertain.
Moving DayFor years I drove past this cabin out in the Advent valley. Then, one day it was moved to a new location. It's more cost effective to move old buildings to new locations than to ship in building materials. The house I lived in was one of a group of small houses moved from Svea, a closed mining town. They were loaded on skids, then dragged over a glacier, through valleys 42km into Longyearbyen. A quick and cheap way of getting 15 new houses.
Sunday at the BeachIn summer pods of walruses frequently beach at the coal harbor. They may spend several days there digesting and sleeping. When it happens locals will drive out to take pictures and watch the walrus. it's always a thrill to see them. Walrus are dangerous, and surprisingly fast for their size. It's always wise to keep a good distance away.
Geese CrosingLongyearbyen is a small settlement on a large wilderness. Reindeer, polar bears, and foxes all come through town. Migrating birds who travel to the Arctic to breed have been coming here for thousands of years, and they continue to land and nest in their traditional breeding grounds regardless of the town that has been built. Flocks of geese fill the roads while Arctic terns and Skua attack those unwary enough to walk on a road near their nests.
Under ConstructionBetween 2018 and 2025 Longyearbyen was a hive of construction. Avalanche fences, ski slope, a private school, a massive wall of dormitories and seven new apartment buildings were built. Temporary housing was built for the workers, many of whom were not Norwegian, to build these structures.
Mine 7/Gruve 7Coal mining has been the heart of Longyearbyen since 1906 when John Munro Longyear founded the Arctic Coal Company and opened Mine 1, now also known as the American Mine. In 1916 Norwegian company Store Norske Spitsbergen Kolkompani (SNSK) took over and has been mining Anthracite coal until 2025 when the last mine, mine 7, was shut down. This is the entrance to Mine 7 which was located about 15km east of town.
Loading Coal at the Coal HarborAnthracite coal is in high demand for making steel, and most of the coal mined in Longyearbyen was sold to Germany for that purpose. Loading coal is dusty, dirty work that leaves a black cloud drifting in the air and a blanket of black dust on the snow.
The Auckland Porter Cannot Help YouThis sign was old when I arrived in 2018. It's one of several tongue in cheek signs around town. It's on an old warehouse building out at the coal harbor. Possibly it dates back to when this was an active coal port receiving a stream of ships from other countries come to load coal.
Spirit of UkraineAfter Russia invaded Ukraine a number of Ukrainian workers moved from Barentsburg to Longyearbyen. They held educational meetings, protests, and fund raising to aid their countrymen. On important Ukrainian holidays the coal miner, misrepresenting all the men and women who worked in the mines, was cloaked in a Ukrainian flag to show solidarity.
Water up from the reservoirAll water in Longyearbyen is glacial melt. The reservoir at the town boundary is separated by a dike from the Adventfjord. A system of pipes and pump houses pipe the water from the reservoir to a station where it's run through a filtration system before being sent to homes and businesses. The water is very high in minerals, particularly iron and magnesium, and recently was discovered to be infested with Legionnaires' disease. For over a year the city has worked to clean the system. It remains a work in progress.
Successful huntIf you are a resident of Longyearbyen you an apply for a licnese to hunt reindeer, seal, and to trap Arctic foxes, as well as the numerous ptarmigan, ducks, and geese. Many people in town, men and women, get reindeer licenses and are then assigned a location, age and sex of reindeer that they're allowed to shoot. So in the fall porches blossom with reindeer carcasses, seal carcasses, and birds. Norwegian law is very strict in requiring both a written knowledge test and a shooting proficiency test before giving a person a hunting license. It is required that certain parts of the reindeer be turned over to the scientists at UNIS for continuing study.
Russia HouseThere has long been a branch of the Russian tourist agency in Longyearbyen known as Russia House. From here they arranged trips to the Russian settlements of Barentsburg and Pyramiden. After Russia invaded Ukraine the Russian presence became much more aggressive, holding militaristic parades in Barentsburg and putting up these extra large (and neon lit by night) signs on their tourism building, even though the size and lighting of the signs violated the town's signage rules. After a lengthy legal process the Russians took down the signs in 2025.
Ordered for winterThere are roughly 3,000 snowmobiles in Longyearbyen. Unlike the famous "more polar bears than people" which is false, there are more snowmobiles than people. Almost every resident has one snowmobile, some have more. UNIS provides snowmobiles for their students and teachers, but they often buy their own for pleasure trips. Tourist companies specializing in snowmobile tours have hundreds, and buy new ones every year. New ones are bought, used ones sold, old ones are abandoned. Every apartment building has to allot space for snowmobile parking as well as car parking. In winter the silence of the Arctic is traded for the roar of snowmobiles as people take to the wilderness on their machines.
UNIS DormitoriesThe dormitories for UNIS, the university center, were originally up in Nybyen in what had been miners' barracks. They were remote, a bit wild, and I understand well loved. Due to concerns about avalanche danger new dorms were build in town taking up what had been a beautiful open wild space were geese and reindeer and Arctic foxes lived.
Different PursuitsOutdoor activities are central to living on Svalbard. Whether its snowmobiling, hiking, skiing, snowshoeing or kayaking everyone does something. That includes a regular group who do daily cold water "swimming." It's more of cold water jump in and then jump out again, but there is a sturdy group who does this every week. I was fortunate to capture them as a group of skiers were going past.
Spisshusene, or the Pointy HousesBuilt in the 1970s as housing for miners' families, these houses in the colors assigned by Grete Smedal became a symbol of Longyearbyen. They are possibly the most photographed buildings in town. In 2025 the government announced it planned to tear them down to build houses of modern design and with better insulation. An uproar resulted, and there is a movement now to save these historic, iconic buildings.
Winter LifeLongyearbyen has more snowmobiles than cars, and once there's snow, snowmobiles take over. There are specific paths for snowmobiles to travel so they are out of the way of cars, and in the valley the snowmobile track is far wider and better groomed than the actual roads.
Christmas Tree LightingDuring the Covid years, the annual Christmas Tree lighting was curtailed, and people were forbidden to do the traditional Norwegian singing and dancing to celebrate the season. When it was once again allowed to celebrate traditionally people massed in the town square to enjoy the traditional camaraderie and celebration of both Christmas and dark season.
Family Housing ConstructionThe years I lived in Longyearbyen saw so much construction. Dormitories, apartment buildings, a new private school complex, a new shopping strip (the northernmost strip mall!). The town lost almost all its open space, and all its views of the mountains. The construction is, imo, uninspired, and without any sense of place or history. It could be in any city in any country. This construction was to be family housing, which means two or three bedrooms.
SvalbardbutikkenA major construction project was the building of a new and much larger grocery store with a separate and larger liquor store. This store sold everything except (sometimes) what you were looking for. It was definitely an upgrade and a much larger space and now sold food for every diet -- including vegan. The top floors rented space to the youth center, tiny movie theater, and to a new (and still controversial) art gallery.
Building a Ski SlopeIn 2023 it was decided that the town needed a ski slope, primarily for the children as skiing is an important part of Norwegian culture. It took a year to build, and included removing part of the avalanche fencing, grading the mountain, installing a small ski lift, and installing snow making machinery because the snowfall on Svalbard can be uncertain. It was named Nedover (downward), which was a joke over the name of the town new, and contentious, art museum, Nordover (Northward).
Installing Trees for WinterEvery year Mary Ann's Polar Rig imports trees from Norway to install a "forest" outside the hotel. During Christmas they're lit and very lovely. But by the end of the January the trees are very dry and by summer they are bright orange and a fire hazard.
The Last Avalanche FenceWhen I moved to Longyearbyen in 2018 there were no avalanche fences. by the time I left in 2025 fifteen avalanche fences ran up the siope of Sukkertoppen like broken necklaces. The last avalanche fence was medieval. A moat was dug, and then a massive stone fence about 20ft high was constructed. If all the avalanche fences failed and the mountain collapsed, this final fence was supposed to protect the town. I doubt if it would. But it was an amazing structure, complete with a wide graveled walk on top which afforded views over town, and out to Advent Valley. It's a great place for northern lights photos in winters, and a pleasant walk in summer.
NybyenNybyen, or new town, lies in the shadow of Sarkofagen. It was the first part of Longyearbyen to be restored after German occupation in WWII, and these buildings -- miners' barracks, canteen, workshops, offices -- date from that time. It is the last complete mining settlement from that area in Norway and historically valuable. Unfortunately, according to Norway's cultural heritage law, these buildings are not protected. The town has been trying to find a way to abandon this part of town since 2019 as the infrastructure is old, in poor repair, and would be expensive to replace. However, most of Nybyen is privately owned, and it is much loved by the residents, so the efforts have so far failed.
Changing TownThe years from 2018 to 2025 were years of profound change in Longyearbyen. Not only did new buildings go up, but politically the town changed due to Russia's invasion of Ukraine, Norway's attempt to reduce the non-Norwegian population by removing the right to vote, the right to drive (which was reinstated) and making it more difficult to get housing or work. The town, which was proudly diverse and unified became divided, stratified by income and color, and deeply unfair. It's a problem that the residents continue to struggle with.